Ghats, Gods & growth: The enduring story of Uzan Bazar

Uzan Bazar, located along the southern bank of the Brahmaputra river in Guwahati, is more than just a neighbourhood – it is the heart of the city's heritage and a living testament to its historical evolution. As one of the oldest settlements in the Kamrup region, Uzan Bazar has seen centuries of change, from its role in ancient trade to being a vibrant urban space that intertwines cultural, spiritual, commercial, and residential life. Its story is deeply connected to Guwahati’s transformation from a modest riverine settlement to the bustling capital of Assam.

Guwahati, known as ‘Pragjyotishpur’ in ancient times, was a significant cultural and commercial city during the Kamarupa period. With the Brahmaputra as a key trade route, Uzan Bazar became a vital hub, its ghats bustling with boat traffic and goods. Its importance continued during the Ahom reign, particularly in the 17th century, when landmarks like the Umananda Temple on the Peacock Island were built. The temple became a spiritual centre, and Uzan Bazar grew around its ghats to serve pilgrims and travellers. The neighbourhood thus evolved into a space where trade, spirituality, and cultural exchange converged, with the riverfront playing a central role in its economic and cultural life.

In 1972, when Guwahati became Assam’s capital, Uzan Bazar became central to the city’s new political and administrative identity. As Guwahati expanded, major institutions like the Gauhati High Court were established there, symbolizing the seat of judicial authority and the adjudication of justice for the entire region. At the same time, Uzan Bazar saw the rise of key civic landmarks. The Guwahati Planetarium, built in 1994, became an educational and astronomical hub for the city. The Bishnu Nirmala Children’s Library, a beloved institution, has nurtured generations of young readers. Close by, the Latasil playground has hosted political rallies, cultural festivals, and sporting events, embedding Uzan Bazar firmly in Guwahati’s civic life.

Uzan Bazar’s significance lies not only in its institutional role but also in its ability to preserve its charm despite Guwahati’s rapid urban expansion. Its markets continue to thrive, particularly the famous Uzan Bazar Fish Market, one of the oldest in the city, providing fresh catches from the Brahmaputra for generations. Early morning visits still feel like stepping back in time, with the market retaining the liveliness once common in Assam’s marketplaces. The fish, an integral part of Assamese cuisine, keeps a cultural and culinary thread tied to Assam’s wider traditions.

The area’s culinary scene is modest yet memorable, with local favourites like Loyans drawing loyal patrons for decades. Among these cherished eateries, Nilkanth tea stall stands out as a beloved city landmark. Located right at the Uzan Bazar bus stop, this decades-old eatery serves what many consider the best samosas and milk tea in Guwahati. It’s heartwarming to see people from all walks of life – office workers, daily wage earners, students, and elderly residents – gathering to chat over steaming cups of tea and fresh snacks, often starting or ending their day at Nilkanth.

Architecture also whispers stories of the past in Uzan Bazar. Colonial-style Assam-type houses and heritage buildings dot the residential lanes, standing resilient through time. The area’s evolution blends the old and new-timber homes with intricate balconies sitting beside modern apartments. Many families have lived here for generations, continuing a lifestyle deeply rooted in community and tradition. This enduring charm is echoed in the temples scattered across the neighbourhood. The Ganesh Mandir, for instance, remains a spiritual hub, especially vibrant during festivals, drawing devotees from across the city.

Uzan Bazar seamlessly blends with other adjoining areas – Ambari, Kharguli, Chenikuthi, and Dighalipukhuri – creating a cultural continuum where boundaries blur. Uber maps even show Chenikuthi as part of Uzan Bazar. These localities share the same vibrant pulse. Dighalipukhuri, with its iconic paddle boat rides, offers tranquillity, while Ambari adds archaeological depth and civic momentum. Kharguli, with its scenic hilltop homes, provides breathtaking views of the Brahmaputra, and Chenikuthi, rich in literary and intellectual legacy, is home to the parental house of late Mamoni Raisom Goswami. Cultural figures like Zubeen Garg and Dwipen Barua also reside here, further enhancing the area’s prominence. Institutions like All Assam Students’ Union (AASU)’s head office, the Vivekananda Kendra Institute of Culture (VKIC), the Governor’s House, and Handique Girls’ College continue to shape the broad locality.

Yet, amidst its splendour, Uzan Bazar faces challenges brought on by modernization. Guwahati’s rapid growth as a metropolitan capital has led to urban congestion, pollution, and strain on infrastructure. The once serene ghats now grapple with overcrowding and environmental degradation, while land disputes and haphazard development threaten to erode the historic neighbourhood’s charm. Long-time residents often reminisce about the quieter days before Guwahati’s relentless pursuit of modernization took over.

Adding to this, the narrow lanes of Uzan Bazar, which once suited a slower pace of life, now struggle to accommodate modern urban demands. Many old colonial structures, unprotected by formal heritage designations, are at risk of being razed for new constructions. The lack of adequate waste management and sanitation facilities has led to rising pollution and poor hygiene in public spaces. The need for functional infrastructure threatens to erase the intangible charm of a lived history that cannot be replicated once lost.

Protecting Uzan Bazar’s heritage is a shared responsibility between the citizens of Guwahati, the State government, and its urban development and planning authorities. Citizens must actively participate in conservation efforts, such as maintaining the Umananda Ghats, restoring heritage homes, and promoting eco-friendly beautification initiatives along the Brahmaputra river.

Concurrently, the government must adopt and enforce regulatory measures to protect historical structures – both those officially notified under applicable heritage conservation laws and those not yet accorded formal heritage status. It must also address the unauthorized use of public spaces and improve pedestrian infrastructure. Residents, on their part, should embrace sustainable practices, support local markets, and engage with the area’s cultural landmarks. Uzan Bazar, a living part of Guwahati's heritage, needs a balanced approach that protects its past while meeting today’s urban needs.

- By Dr Hriday Sarma

(The author is a senior fellow at South Asia Democratic Forum, a Brussels-based think tank).